Відео

Thanks for letting me know!

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for sharing your experience here, Richard. Cheers sir.

I’m still loving my 2436. No problems for me. I just turned 6 bowls that started out with blanks that were 85-90 pounds apiece. No problems. The lathe is lighter than some 3hp 24” lathes which means that you will have to start a bit slower than you would on a 1000 pound lathe. I started out each bowl at about 270 RPM which is pretty slow but was able to get up to 400 relatively quickly which is a better speed. So, for the money I believe it’s a great lathe.

Thanks 🙏

Gotta watch those tool requirements closely

I did not have that one in the shop for very long so I can’t comment on longevity. But hopefully someone else can chime in.

@ToolMetrix so that probably tells me that you did really like the saw much and thanks for the info ☺️

@anthonypalazzolo6181 I loved the saw, actually. But I am a tool reviewer, so I have tools coming through my shop all the time. I don’t have money or space to keep them all. I can’t actually keep most of the tools that I review.

@ToolMetrix ok I didn't realise that sorry so I wouldn't make a mistake if I bought the f3 eventhoug I was looking at the SawStop contractor model but in a much expensive cost and towards the end it was another $450 d for the wheels after I was getting the update fance and the cast iron wings all up was over 45k tha sort of turned me off and the f3 I was saving much more I can still bu the SawStop for that money but at the end I coudnt justify all the value and the compartment I do understand about the safety features but at the same time there's other tools that you can chop your finger off Thank you for the response and I enjoy your videos cheers 🍻

@anthonypalazzolo6181 no I don’t think you would be making a mistake. Both are good saws so I think it mostly comes down to how much the sawstop brake system is worth. If you use a blade guard it probably doesn’t matter much.

1/4”

Hi Ed, It's been a long time now since I did this, but I don't believe that I used a worm screw to start with. I almost always just use a face plate and screws. I've had more problems with worm screws stripping out, which has made them more trouble than they are worth for me. So, I'd suggest just doing that. You'll definitely want to cut the wood as round as you possible can if you are turning a bowl this size on a midi lathe. You don't want your lathe dancing around your shop. It was jumpy enough on this turn, even though I did a pretty good job of getting it round on the bandsaw to start with. Good luck, Paul

Hi Paul. Thank you for all your support and comments. Will keep learning. Be well. Ed

If you are standing at the front of the machine where the controls are you will run in forward. If you are on the rear of the lathe you will run in reverse. In glancing back at the video it looks like I did a little of each. I don't remember why.

Hi Michael, that sounds interesting. There are so many DIY applications for this type of technology, and that market is entirely underserved. Yes, I'd be happy to take a look, even before your certification if you'd like. Looking forward to it. Cheers, Paul

thanks for weighing in!

If the filter's clean it won't impede the air flow. If it wasn't for the cleaning mechanism, it might be problematic to have a filter that size. But I believe that the cleaning mechanism keeps it clean which will keep the air flow at a sufficient level, which is the cool thing about the space saving design.

@@ToolMetrix thanks for reply. I recently put a plfux 2/3 filter on my plfux 1 and the air flow was dramatically increased. My pflux actually started whistling. Have a great day!

Thanks for letting me know. My shop does tend to echo.

Thanks for sharing your thoughts here! Sounds like you are a super fan!

It's probably safe after a reasonable cure time, which is typically around 30 days for most finishes.

Thanks for watching, and for the suggestion. Cheers

I've been thinking about that, actually.

Hi Larry, thanks for your feedback. The sandpaper suggestion is a great one. Thanks for sharing. Cheers, Paul

@@ToolMetrix Hey Paul - glad to know you like the sandpaper idea.. this entire jig is perfect and I've now used it to cut some very small pieces - just added a zero clearance fence to hold the wood against and your jig idea is amazing!.

No sorry I don’t.

Thanks for watching

Thanks for watching 🙏

Thanks for watching. The woodworking is easy, but the electronics and finishing aspects can be a bit intimidating, depending on your experience level.

Good feedback. Thanks 🙏

Thank you. Yes, you can tilt the table to cut at an angle.

Thank you, Amy! 🙏

Wow I’m sorry that you had such a bad experience with your assembly. Thanks for sharing your experience here. Cheers

Sorry I didn’t show that. It might take a bit of prying it back and forth to get it loose.

Thanks for the feedback, Todd. I agree that is a good value.

I’m all for it. You can achieve a great surface finish that way.

Thank you. Yes, good quality and additional safety is rarely cheap.

Sorry I don’t recall where I saw that information and I’m not positive.

I don’t think this will work on a sawstop unfortunately.

Awesome. Best of luck. Let me know how it goes. Cheers

Nope

I think it would. I’d put a couple coats of polyurethane or whatever your top coat is, the fill the grain, then a few more coats of top coat. That should protect the stain while you lightly sand the grain filler.

My pleasure. Thanks for watching. Cheers

Yep, it would be much better in a closet if you have the space.

That’s why I installed it at the time. I haven’t looked at the cost of metal lately but 6” PVC has gone up by about 3X since I installed mine.

I assume that you mean snipe. If your jointer is doing it you need to adjust it so that it stops. If it is your planer you can sometimes make adjustments in the feed rollers to improve it (depends on the model) but if it persists then send a scrap board ahead and behind your workpiece so the snipe will occur on the scrap piece.

Hmmmm…interesting. Well, nothing bad happened but I probably didn’t read the instructions closely enough. So they suggest a couple coats of sealer first? If so, you’re probably better off following the instructions than following me. 😃

@@ToolMetrix Well, they suggest a pair of coats of sealer and after that finishing with a colored transparent lacquer.

Good to know. Thanks 🙏

Many power tools are dangerous. Table saws and miter saws are among the top injury causing tools, yet many woodworkers still use them without incident every day. Choose your tools according to your risk tolerance and use good safety practices.

Moisture meters vary in the depths that they read. Weighing is a good approach as well.

thank you, Ken! Cheers, Paul

Yep that’s probably a 18-20” x 2” deep bowl, turned outboard using the configuration you mentioned. It’s not ideal but you could do it once in a while. You would not want to turn something of that diameter that was much deeper than that, or super out of round. You’d want to step up to a larger lathe for that.

Thanks Eddie. I’ll look into that. No problems so far.

Yep exactly. You’re gonna love this approach.

Thanks for watching. Cheers

Great feedback. Thanks for watching and sharing your experience here. Cheers, Paul

Thank you, Paul. Cheers, Paul